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At SIHH 2010, Cartier’s new creations stunned many watches lover. Except for the new models, Cartier’s first self-winding movement produced entirely by itself is really a big surprise for every body.

The Caliber 1904 MC watch movement reflects the intense, ambitious research that Cartier has carried out over the years in the field of watchmaking mechanisms. With the exception of a handful of parts like the balance wheel and hairspring, movement components are made by Cartier, either at La Chaux-de-Fonds or Buttes in the Canton of Neuchâtel, with assembly and testing done at La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Measuring 11 ½ lignes and 4 mm high, the movement is designed to be reliable, easy to service and suitable for mass production. Notably it is the same diameter as the ETA 2892, if slightly thicker, enabling it to be an easy replacement for the 2892.

The 1904 MC is constructed with double barrels that unwind in series for more consistent torque over the 48 hour power reserve. Sitting on ceramic ball bearings, the rotor winds both barrels are wound bidirectionally thanks to a V-shaped pawl. This winding mechanism is very similar to Seiko’s “Magic Lever”. Compared to the traditional reversers (in ETA calibres for instance), the V-shaped pawl theoretically offers more efficient winding.

The escapement is conventional, featuring a smooth Glucydur balance with a lever that touches its rim to stop its oscillation when the crown is pulled. While not remarkable in any way, this escapement set up is tried and tested and works tremendously well.

This particular specimen being reviewed uses the short lived version 1 of the 1904 MC. Several subtle differences exist between v.1 and 2. Most obviously v.1 is fitted with an ordinary ETAChron regulator as seen here, while v.2 sports a C-shaped regulator. For increased robustness, the second generation is 4 mm high, compared to 3.86 mm for v.1. Also, in the first version, the wheel train bridge is integrated with the barrel bridge, but in v.2, the two bridges are separate to facilitate servicing.

6497 is the classic movement of Unitas, now it is belonged to ETA after being acquired. After Experiencing the stifling “Quartz Storm”  in the 80’s, 6497 left as one of the large size movement used in pocket watch. At that time, 6497 was rarely used because it is too large. However, big watches are very hot today, so 6497 can satisfy watch makers’need exactly who make those watches that have large a case. Although 6497 is very large, it has a rational structure and a surprising accuracy. With a 18000A/H low frequency, but it has passed the COSC certification.

Many peopel say that hand-wound mechanical movement is the final target of watch fans, only manual winding is the straightforward communication between you and a watch. 6497, mainly as a pocket watch movement before, is really large, especially its balance wheel. There are two ways that Panerai uses to polishing 6497 movement, one is to engrave “Panerai” on the plate, and the other is to polish common Geneva stripes, the latter is more special.

Unitas 6497 also has some relationship with Omega Railmaster, which is specially designed for the railway workers for keeping improved accuracy. Inside its large case of Railmaster, there is the 6498 movement, the brother of 6497, only has some modification on its small seconds, precious run 9@sec changed into traditional run 6@sec. Besides, a German watch, D.Dornbluth&Sohn, also uses 6497 movement, the watch mainly used the Gear Train system of 6497, in addition to German special polishing ways, finally reflected a fresh style totally different from Swiss brand: pink gold 3/4 plate, “fausses cotes” decoration, 18 jewels, 4 in screwed gold chatons, straight line lever escapement and “swanneck” micrometer regulator.

In ETA movement family, amony the most classic five movements, Valjoux 7750, Unitas 6497 and Peseux 7001 came from the successful acquisition of ETA.

ETA 7001 is the summary of traditional Swiss three small three seconds version, different with 6497, it is small and exquisite. Like the classic combination of ETA 2892 A2 and ETA 2824-2, ETA 7001 has well filled the small manual winding movement field. You have to admire this company’s strength, the emergence of ETA 7001 helps many watch makers can produce hand-wound small three seconds wristwatches. The movement was first designed and manufactured in 1971, its former and latter movements, like 2660, 2691, 2801, have caused great impact, but can not compared with 7001.

7001 is much smaller than 6497, so it has a higher frequency than 6497, 21600A/H. Many people always think it will be more perfect if the frequency is reduced to 18000A/H.

The first time I saw the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster, I could hardly believe my eyes: 1 / 10 jump seconds. El Primero 1 / 10 jump seconds chronograph embodies Zenith’s great return in technology and quality. The legendary El Primero movement is the first watch with 1 / 10 jump second display automatic chrono movement in the world. Even if in today, there is no chronograph movement can be equal to Zenith chrono watch.  El Primero has the most advanced mechanical movement and the most sophisticated construction. Most of the other mechanical movement beats up to 8 times per second. This movement on BaselWorld 2010 achieved the most important technological progress in watchmaking industry. It allows people to witness the 1 / 10 second.

El Primero 1 / 10 jump seconds chronograph can show every beat of movement. The central chrono pointer directly connected with speeder beats every 1 / 10 seconds, displaying the shortest choro interval of mechanical movement. The dial is divided into 100 markers. For wearer of this Zenith watch, the 1 / 10 second display is easy to read. While the traditional 1 / 8 sec or 1 / 5 sec display is difficult to read. With this point, Zenith established its leading position in precise chronograph once more.

This is a elegant, noble, exquisite and perfect chronograph. Three subdials are arranged on the white dial with V shape. Three subdials represent with deep color, in order to read time easily. The typical shining pentacle symbol of Zenith is at 12 o’clock. You have two choices: one watch is rose gold case, black subdials with black leather strap. The other one has silver case, two black subdials, one blue subdial with black leather strap.